That being said, this is the inspection sheet I use, when I inspect my SAAB.  I typically perform an inspection in the spring and fall, or when I have the vehicle in for a maintenance that entails several items.  I've included this in "sheet" format so that you can print it off and run through the checklist as you complete items.  If you feel that items are correctly listed or additional items should be listed, contact me.

1994 to 1998 SAAB 900 Vehicle Inspection

Engine Bay:

• Check engine oil level; note oil color and smell. If oil is dark or smells of fuel, an oil change is in order.

• Check coolant level and color. Look for rust or scale deposits in the overflow bottle indicating a need for cooling system maintenance. Look for signs of oil indicating a failed head gasket. Low fluid indicates a leak that must be located and repaired.

• Check washer fluid: Add as necessary; use a high-quality fluid.

• Check brake fluid level and color. If fluid is low, this indicates a leak that must be located. New brake fluid looks like corn syrup. If the fluid is dark, it indicates contamination and should be flushed with new fluid. Use only synthetic DOT-4 fluid.

• Check power steering fluid. If fluid is low, this indicates a leak that must be located. If fluid is dark or smells burned, fluid should be flushed.

• Remove the air-cleaning element and inspect; if lightly soiled, tap it carefully to remove debris. If heavily soiled, replace the filter element.

• Check coolant hoses by squeezing them. If they feel soft or rubbery, this indicates that the hose has broken down internally and should be replaced. Additionally, check for cracks or weathered hoses or damaged/corroded clamps. Check hose clamps for corrosion/damage and tightness. If one hose is found to be bad, good preventative maintenance would facilitate replacement of all under hood coolant hoses and a cooling system flush. A failed hose will strand you roadside!

• Remove the grill and ensure that the radiator/condenser are clean and that the fins are straight. If the radiator/condenser is dirty, removing the fan assembly and back flushing with water can clean it. If fins are bent, they can be repaired using a fin-straightening comb.

• Inspect serpentine drive belt and tensioner/idler pulleys. Remove the belt and bend it lightly around your hand. Any cracking or scuffing indicates the belt should be renewed. With the belt removed, rotate the pulleys. If a pulley freewheels easily or makes a whirring sound, this indicates that the grease has been lost and the pulley should be replaced. A failed pulley will strand you roadside!

• Remove the intake baffle and inspect the vacuum and idle air hoses to the throttle body and from the throttle body to the evap canister. Ensure clamps are tight and that hoses are in good condition. Replace any items that show wear.

• Remove the DIC/Engine cover and remove each spark plug, one by one. Inspect the plugs for signs of oil contamination, detonation, fouling, wear, etc. Renew plugs as necessary.

• If equipped, remove the distributor cap and inspect for sings of wear/oil contamination. If worn, replace the cap and rotor as a pair. If oil contaminated, replacement of the distributor will be necessary to remedy the leak.

• Inspect battery terminals. Terminal ends should be clean, tight, and free from corrosion. If terminal is loose, inspect for damage and remedy as necessary. If cable is corroded, replace or renew as appropriate.

• Using a small flashlight, inspect all engine surfaces for signs of fluid leakage. If fluid leakage is noted, clean area thoroughly and monitor leak to determine source. Repair leak sources as necessary.

• Using a small flashlight, carefully inspect wiring harnesses and connectors. If any are damaged, determine cause of damage and repair as necessary. Replacement connectors can be sourced from online suppliers. Before attempting to disconnect any SAAB connector, spray it with silicone lubricant to prevent seizing/breakage of a brittle connector.

• Secure the car on jackstands and remove right front wheel. Remove the transmission inspection plug (middle plug, just above the driveshaft). Push your finger into the hole and feel for fluid. The level should be just below the hole; if the fluid is low, this indicates a leak that should be repaired. Inspect the fluid color; if the fluid is dirty, it should be replaced.

• Finally, inspect the engine mounts. The car uses two hydraulic mounts, at the front-right and rear, and one rubber mount at the transmission. Damaged hydraulic mounts will leak oil. Damaged rubber mounts will show cracking or missing pieces of rubber. If a mount is damaged, replace it with a new one.

Suspension, Brakes and Undercarriage:

• Place the front of the vehicle securely on jackstands and remove the front wheels. Begin with the front suspension. Press on each of the four CV boots and ensure they are good, clean and free from cracks or tears. If a tear or crack is found, the axle must be removed, disassembled and the boot replaced.

• Inspect the front swaybar endlink bushings. These should be pliable and the hardware should be tight. If any are damaged (hard, cracked, etc) renew as necessary. Polyurethane swaybar bushings are available from Energy Suspension via Autozone. Always use a new nylock nut when renewing the swaybar bushings.

• Inspect the balljoint dust boots. If grease is squishing out of the boot, wipe it clean and check for cracks or tears. If a torn boot is encountered, a new boot can be fitted, however, often the joint is damaged from contamination; if this is the case, fit a new control arm.

• Inspect the tie-rod ends, both inner and outer. The outer tie-rod ends have dust boots like the balljoint. If these are torn, the tie-rod ends should be replaced. The inner tie-rod ends have rubber bushings where they attach to the steering rack; ensure that these are in good condition. If inner rod bushings are cracked/torn, the inner tie-rod must be replaced.

• Inspect the stanchion arm bushings for signs of damage. If cracks/tears are found on the front busing, the control arm must be renewed. If damage is found on the rear bushing, the stanchion arm should be removed and the bushing renewed. Polyurethane bushings are available via Genuine SAAB to replace damaged stanchion/control arm bushings.

• Pull up the strut dust boot and look for signs of seal failure; this is typically seen as an oily residue on the shock piston rod.

• Using a small flashlight, inspect the upper strut mount. Any cracks or separation of the rubber will require mount replacement.

• Finally for the front wheels, inspect the front calipers and brake pads. Look at the leading edge of the caliper to determine pad thickness. Pads that are less than 5mm thick should be replaced. Additionally, inspect the rotor for wear ridges. If the rotor is substantially worn, it should be renewed along with new pads. Finally, inspect the rubber piston boot and slider dust caps. If these are damaged, the caliper should be rebuilt.

• Replace the wheels and place the front of the car back on the ground. Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it on jackstands. Remove the rear wheels. Inspect the rear shock absorbers. A failed shock absorber will typically exhibit an oily residue around it’s outer edges. If a shock is worn, renew both sides at the same time. Additionally, check the upper shock mount for rust; this is a common rust point for the vehicle. If rust is found, the area will have to be cleaned, repaired and repainted.

• Inspect the rear brake rotors and pads in like manner to the front pads. If any component is worn, renew as necessary.

• Have an assistant operate the handbrake. Ensure that the brake and cable are fully functional and that the rear pads are properly adjusted. Adjust/renew as necessary.

• Inspect the exhaust system for signs of damage/corrosion. An exhaust leak will usually reveal itself as a streak of carbon. Replacement of damaged components is the best method for repair. A leaky exhaust connection can be corrected by removing the clamp, cleaning the area with a steel brush, sealing the connection with exhaust sealant and reinstalling the clamp. Additionally, inspect the exhaust hangers for failure. Replace as necessary. Finally, inspect the heat shields; a bent shield should be removed and straightened. A broken shield mount should be repaired. Never remove a shield permanently.

• Check the hoses and clamps for the fuel tank; replace any corroded/damaged clamp or hose as necessary.

• Finally, inspect the undercarriage for signs of corrosion. If corrosion is found, clean the area with a scraper and steel brush to remove any loose rust. Treat remaining corrosion with a rust sealing paint (such as POR 15 or Eastwood’s Rust Encapsulator) and paint.

Body, Paintwork and Brightwork

• Begin with a thorough washing of the exterior. The body should be clean in order to provide a good condition inspection of the paint and exterior. Walk around the body and inspect the paint. The finish should be shiny and clear. Scratches, swirl-marks, and hazing should be repaired as appropriate.

• Inspect body for signs of corrosion. Common corrosion points on the 900 include the rear fender wells (you’ll find rust at the body seams), the front floorboards, the bottom lip of the rear hatch and the leading edge of the hood. Additionally, look at the lower, outer window weatherstripping, just above the door handles. These will often bubble from rust. Finally, pull back the door weatherstripping, where it attaches to the body, and look for rust. Inspect these areas carefully and ensure they are corrosion free. If corrosion is found, it must be remedied with haste, as rust will beget more rust!

• Inspect the body trim for signs of damage; most of the body trim on the 900 is rubber or plastic. Any damage to these components will require replacement of the component.

• Operate all doors and exterior hinges and ensure that they operate smoothly and properly; a rough opening door may need oil or may have a bad hinge. Additionally, sight down body lines and verify proper fitment. Body panels that don’t line up may have been replaced or improperly installed.

• Inspect the headlamp and foglamp lenses. Heavily pitted lenses will reduce light output. Because these lenses are glass, they must be replaced if damaged. Fortunately, SAAB sells lenses separately and replacement is straightforward. Inspect all exterior lenses for water tightness and clarity; any damaged or wet lens will need to be remedied.

• Inspect all door weatherstripping: any torn weatherstripping should be replaced.

• Lift up the hatch carpeting and look for rust/moisture. If moisture or rust is found, water has made its way into the cabin. Common culprits include a failed fuel filler seal and bad tail lamp seals. Have an assistant lay in the trunk and spray the rear with water; leaks will become evident and can be repaired.

Interior and Accessory:

• Open all doors and inspect the interior. The interior should be clean and free from soil.

• Operate all interior accessories and verify proper functionality

• Operate all windows, rear hatch pop and hood release and ensure proper functionality

• Check each interior panel for proper attachment

• Turn on all lights and verify each works appropriately

• Operate each seat adjuster and verify that each moves freely and smoothly.  

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