To access the fuel injectors, the fuel rail should be removed and disassembled; I'll refer you to the Haynes manual for reference on removing the fuel rail.  Once the rail is removed and drained, the fuel injectors should be removed.  This is a simple task; the injectors are held to the rail with clips.  Simply remove these clips and slide the fuel injector free from the rail. 

Once you have the injector free, give it a good cleaning with carburetor cleaner to remove dirt and grime prior to disassembly; this will prevent small bits of dirt from entering the injector and damaging or clogging it internally.  This is my injector, after a thorough spray: 

With the injector cleaned of initial grime, I scrubbed its body with a steel brush to remove the original paint.  The carburetor cleaner does a great job of softening the finish and aiding in its removal.  This is the same injector, after such scrubbing:

Once the injector is clean, it should be disassembled.  Begin by removing the upper and lower o-rings.  These can be gently rolled free; if the lower has hardened from 180k miles of use, it can be removed, carefully, using needle-nosed pliers.  The cap (green tip of the injector above) can be removed by carefully softening it with a solder iron and pulling it free with needle-nose pliers.  Take utmost care to not damage the nozzle of the injector; any marring of this surface will require a replacement injector!

To remove the injector filter (basket filter, screen, etc),  carefully thread in a #12 machine screw and pull the filter free with pliers. 

This is the naked injector, with all serviceable ports removed:

At this stage, the injector should be cleaned to remove internal varnish and deposits.  I was lucky; I had access to an ultrasonic cleaner and flow bench and was able to clean my injectors on my own time.  If this is not the case for you, there are companies who will clean and flow-test injectors for a small fee. 

With the injectors clean and tested, the body can be repainted.  I masked the upper section and used Duplicolor's Ford Semi-gloss Black engine paint to restore the black finish. 

Finally, replacement o-rings, filter, spacer and cap can be fitted.  I purchased my set on EBay.  These parts will fit the 280150 series injector. 

This is the assembly sequence for the injectors. 

To reassemble each injector, begin by sliding the spacer (dark yellow above) and lower o-ring on to the shaft.  Slide the pintle (light yellow) onto the shaft and press it into place by pushing down on the injector, on a piece of soft-wood.  Install the upper o-ring by rolling it into place.  Finally, install the new filter.  Lay the filter, brass side down, on a hard flat surface (metal vise, laminated desk, etc) and slide the injector over it.  Press downward on the injector while rotating it, to seat the new filter.  When done, you'll have this:

Finally, lubricate the upper o-rings thoroughly with engine oil and slide into fuel rail.  Secure injector in fuel rail with original clips. 

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