Beginning with the assembled long block, the accessories can be added; I began on the intake side, however, the exhaust side is just as good a starting point.  Looking at the intake side of the engine, the accessories are added in the following order:  sensors, lower oil tube, intake manifold, upper oil tube, brackets and pulleys, thermostat, alternator and starter. 

As with the long block, in my haste, I failed to photograph some of the earlier steps.  Here is the engine with intake manifold, throttle body and oil tube installed. 

Shot of the thermostat, temp sensor and intake manifold installed.  New flange bolts were used on the intake manifold as the originals had a fair bit of rust.  Additionally, Loctite 518 was used to dress the intake manifold gasket before installation.  Nice shiny parts!:

And after installation of the intake side brackets and belt pulleys:

It's been a while since I've posted an update and I apologize; I've had read-only server errors for the past several days.  The engine is now fully assembled and ready for install.  As part of this, I rebuilt the distributor, starter and alternator. 

Here is the assembled engine, just prior to installation:

As a final check, every last section of the assembled engine was inspected to ensure everything was installed and installed properly.  I then hoisted the engine back into the engine bay and installed the fuel lines, rerouted the harness, bolted the engine mount to the frame rail, etc. 

With the engine back in the car, the clutch and pressure plate were installed:

To continue, the transmission was cleaned/reconditioned and resealed.  You can find more information on the clutch page.  This is the finished transmission:

When installing the throwout bearing, lightly coat the throwout sleeve with high-temp disc brake grease.  This is the best grease that I have found, for this application, despite the harsh conditions it operates in. 

Once the transmission is prepared, it can be raised and bolted to the engine.  I have found that bolting the right-hand engine mount in place and lowering the engine a bit provides better access.  To raise the transmission, I used a pair of floor jacks and carefully hoisted it toward the engine.  Alignment has to be perfect for the transmission to slide in place.  Bolt the transmission to the engine and reconnect accessories, starting with the fuel lines, then the fuel injection system and finally the distributor and all coolant hoses and sensors.  In my haste to finish this two-month process, I did not capture images of this.  Here is the installed engine, waiting for the subframe and exhaust to go back in:

Since I've already gone this far, I decided to clean and recondition the suspension.  The subframe was pressure washed and painted with epoxy appliance paint (also recommended for chassis parts).  The suspension arms were scrubbed with #3 steel wool and everything was wiped clean:

When ready, bolt the subframe in place and torque appropriately.  Install the exhaust and route the oxygen sensor harness. 

Add a new oil filter, oil, coolant and transmission oil and ready the engine for initial startup.  I used Mobil1 5000 conventional oil and Bosch filters for the break-in period as the oil was changed after only 30 minutes of operation and synthetic is rumored to cause problems with ring seating.  For the remaining fluids, I chose to use Pentosin Longlife coolant (blue) and SAAB MTF0063 Synthetic transmission fluid. 

Remove the Motronic and fuel-pump fuses (28 and 32 in the fuse block) and crank the engine until the oil pressure light extinguishes.  Replace the fuses, start the engine and hold at 1500 rpm until the thermostat opens.  Shut off the engine, change the oil and let the block cool.  You're now ready for break-in. 

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