So, your SAAB is in the garage, torn apart, you haven't driven it for a month, and you're ready to get to work, what do you do next?  Well, we need to get the engine components surgically clean so we can put this thing back together. 

After measuring the bores and journals with bore gauges and a micrometer, I've decided my components are in good enough condition to simply hone the cylinders, install new rings and clean things up.  Knowing this, it's time to get things cleaned up and looking good. 

Cleaning the block (i.e. the most arduous task of this entire process!):

I began by cleaning the block.  To do this, I purchased a large storage tub at my local Target.  The kind you'd use to store parts in, in the basement.  I placed the block in the tub, sprayed it with Castrol's SuperClean degreaser and scrubbed it with a wire brush, inside and out.  If you use this stuff, wear safety glasses and chemical-resistant rubber gloves.  Scrub until every inch of the block is clean and then flush with water.  Use high pressure water to clear the oil galleys and coolant channels of debris.  Once clean, dry the block thoroughly with compressed air and coat with WD-40 to prevent rust.  This is the blocks first cleaning. 

Once the block has been degreased, clean out the storage tub and  place the block back in it.  Pour a gallon of low-odor mineral spirits onto the block and scrub with a toothbrush.  Use additional gallons of mineral spirits to clean and flush the block.  Use gun-bore brushes to scrub every oil passage.  You want the block to be as clean as you can get it!  Be very careful when using mineral spirits.  Use them away from ignition sources and keep in mind that their vapors can float along the floor for long distances and be ignited by pilot lights and such.  Just be careful.  When you are satisfied with the cleanliness, dry the block with compressed air and hand-coat the internal surfaces and bore with engine oil to prevent rust.  Don't get oil on the external surfaces as this will interfere with paint adhesion. 

Painting the block:

With the block thoroughly cleaned, it's time to paint it.  Begin by sanding all exterior surfaces with heavy (100) grit paper and then wipe down with lacquer thinner.  Mask all machined edges before spraying.  To do this, apply a strip of masking tape over the machined area, tap the edges with a small hammer (to cut through the tape) and then peel back the excess.  This is my block, after masking, before painting:

Engine, masked and ready to paint.  The block has been lightly sanded and cleaned with mineral spirits.

Once masked, paint the block with engine enamel.  I used Duplicolor's Low Gloss Black (Chrysler) engine enamel and applied two coats.  Be sure to apply light coats and keep the can at least 6" from the surface, to prevent runs.  When finished, you should have something that looks similar, depending on your color choice.  

Engine block after painting.  Several fine coats of Duplicolor's Low Gloss Black were used.

Finally, peel off the mask and polish the machined surfaces. I polished mine with a wire cup brush in my 4.5" angle grinder.  This not only makes them look good, but ensures they are clean and ready for assembly. 

Engine block after painting, with masking removed.   The machined surfaces have been cleaned with a wire cup brush mounted in an angle grinder.  Threads will be chased, prior to engine assembly.

Machine Shop Work:

Since my high-mileage block was in good condition and measured within SAAB's tolerance band for cylinder specs, I had the cylinder's honed to break the glaze.  This  provides a surface adequate to ensure proper ring break in.  I'm using cast iron rings and have specified hone geometry to match.  I had initially intended to do the honing myself, however, my reputable local machine shop (AMS in Fort Collins) offered to do it for $32.  For that, I couldn't even buy the proper hone, so I took advantage of their experience and had them do the honing.  Here is a shot of the engine block, fresh from the machine shop.  The cylinder hatches are not as rough as they look in the pictures; this is an artifact of my Olympus digital camera. 

Engine block, fresh from the machine shop.  The cylinder walls were deglazed to help seat in the new rings.  No other machine work was required for this overhaul!

Cleaning Engine Parts:

At this stage, all of the engine parts should be cleaned and reconditioned.  I'll begin with the short block components; rod/pistons and crankshaft.

To clean most engine parts, I use concentrated Castrol SuperClean Degreaser (WalMart sells it as Concrete Cleaner).  This stuff is the best engine cleaner I've found; it dissolves varnish on contact and leaves the surface looking new.  You have to be careful with it on aluminum  and polished parts, though, as it will discolor them.  If I use it on aluminum , I use it quickly and then I clean the surface thoroughly with a stiff-bristled brush. 

Here is my crankshaft after a thorough cleaning with SuperClean degreaser.  The journals have been dried and brightened with 800 grit crocus cloth, using the shoestring method.  Not bad for a completely factory crankshaft at 178k miles!

The Crankshaft after a thorough cleaning and journal brightening.  Journals were still within SAAB specification for diameter and ovality!

The piston/rod assemblies were cleaned in the same fashion as the crankshaft.  To ensure all components are flawlessly clean, the wrist pins were removed and the pistons, rods and pins were cleaned separately.  To remove carbon deposits from the ring lands, a piece of the original ring was used to carefully scrape debris free.  This is the pistons after a thorough cleaning and installation of new Deves rings.  For a good step to step on ring installation, visit Platonoff's site. 

Piston & rod assembly after cleaning.  To fully clean, the wrist pin should be removed and all components should be cleaned and inspected.

Crown of piston, after a thorough cleaning.

And a few shots of the pistons, before and after cleaning.  Everything that goes into your engine should be clean; 100% positively and without a doubt, clean! 

I am using Deve's rings and Glyco bearings.  The Deve's top ring is cast iron as opposed to the chrome ring used by SAAB.  The cast iron ring should be much more forgiving to cylinder wall condition and should seat more quickly than the chrome ring. 

With the rest of the short block components ready, the balance shafts were cleaned and reconditioned.  As part of this, the balance chain sprockets were replaced on both shafts.  To remove the balance shaft sprocket, I clamped the end opposite the sprocket in a vice and secured it to my bench. I then carefully applied full torque until it broke loose. The torque spec for these is 31 ft lbs; the exhaust side seemed to have a substantial bit more applied to it; perhaps due to rotation .  Here is a comparison of the as-removed and as-reconditioned shafts.  I was surprised at the amount of gunk on the shafts when they were removed. 

A comparison between the balance shafts; as-removed versus as-cleaned.  New sprockets were installed on both shafts.

In preperation for short block assembly, I cleaned the main caps and thrust bearings, today.  The main caps were as grungy as the balance shaft shown above.  I let each cap soak, in Castrol Degreaser, for about 15 minutes and then used a brass brush to scrub away grime.  Here are the results:

Number 5 main cap and bolts, after a thorough cleaning.  All 5 caps were soaked in degreaser and scrubbed with a brass-bristled brush.  The threads of all bolts were cleaned and all parts were oiled to prevent rust.

Also, I cleaned and inspected the thrust bearings.  My original bearings have hardly any wear, so I'm going to reuse them.  I was surprised just how good of condition they were in, given they came from a high-mileage car with a manual transmission. 

Thrust bearing after cleaning.  Hardly any wear on either bearing; these will be reused

With all other short-block components being either new or cleaned/reconditioned, I turned my attention to the rear cover.  I scrubbed the cover with Castrol's Degreaser and a wire brush, in a circular motion to prevent scratching a pattern into the aluminum.  I also oiled and pressed in a new seal, using a large rubber mallet. 

Rear cover, as cleaned, with a new seal and starter stud.

Time for cleaning/reconditioning of some of the smaller pieces. I plan to assemble the short block and install the timing/balance chain components in one shot. To help with that, tonight, I cleaned the cooling jets, timing chain stay, balance shaft chain idler and oil pump drive. Here are shots of each:
 

Oil Cooling Jets; as cleaned.  Each of these has a check valve to keep air from entering the oil galley; ensure this check valve seats closed!

Timing chainstay (lower support bracket), as cleaned, with original torx head screws.

Balance shaft idler sprocket assembly.  The sprocket was replaced as a matter of preventative maintenance.

Cleaned oil pump drive sprocket.

In addition to the internal components, the external components for the short block should be cleaned.  This is the oil filter bracket and filter supply tube, as cleaned. 

The front-side of the oil filter housing, as cleaned.

The rear side of the oil filter housing, as cleaned.  The flange surface was lightly cross-hatched to provide a good finish for sealant adhesion

The oil filter supply tube, as cleaned, complete with new o-rings.  The o-rings are part number 9137993 and run $1.90 each, from SAAB

The timing cover, oil pump and oil pump cover were the worst parts to clean, thus far.  The intricacies of the timing cover make it difficult to clean and keep looking good.  Here's mine, after 3 hours worth of scrubbing.  The oil pump is at 0.075 mm, which is still within spec; I'm going to keep it in the engine a bit longer! 

To clean the timing cover and restore it's original appearance, I cleaned/degreased it with Castrol Degreaser, scrubbed it's surface with a wire brush and then etched it using Eagle One Mag Wheel cleaner.  Here are the results:

Timing cover, oil pump housing and securing ring, as cleaned; timing cover has been brushed.

Same timing cover, after etching with Eagle One mag wheel cleaner.

More cleanup and a bit of painting!  As part of this rebuild, I wanted to detail the engine to look more like the 2003-2006 B235 engines.  I've painted the valve cover and top plate to match the present B235 scheme. 

Valve cover, painted in latest B235 scheme.  The top plate will be secured, ultimately, using chrome button-head screws.

The cam gears and tensioner were reconditioned.  These were cleaned in like fashion to every other part I've showcased.

The tensioner was cleaned and the outer section was painted Ford Semi-gloss Black. 

Additionally, the fuel injectors were disassembled, all serviceable parts were removed, the injectors were cleaned ultrasonically, and the body's were painted.  For details, visit the injector overhaul page.   

I am also awaiting new caps, o-rings and filters for the injectors.  When I have these components, the injectors will be reassembled and installed back into the fuel rail.